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The “Underground Lake” - Adventure
in the Woods

Probably the most popular off road destination in the Moncton area is the little gypsum cavern in Albert County universally known as "the underground lake". Getting there entails a ten minute, uphill walk through the woods, and you'll have to cross a brook en route, but usually some unknown kindly person has felled a tree cross it by way of improvised footbridge.

You can do this as a loop - go to Albert Mines, to the underground lake, and then continue on along the Albert Mines road to come back out on the main highway NB 114. Here, if you turn left, that is, back toward Moncton, the drive will take you to the celebrated Hopewell Rocks just a short distance ahead. Or, if you turn right on NB 114, you'll eventually come to Fundy Park.

So here we go - first of all to the "underground lake." From downtown Moncton, head toward Riverview on the South side of the Petitcodiac, immediately on the Riverview side of the bridge, set your km counter to zero. Turn left, and drive 26 km on Route 114, which leads to Fundy Park. Turn right at the "Albert Mines" road sign. At about 3.5 km down this road, you'll go down a steep hill. Look for the old church on the right. Turning right here will take you to the remnants (of which there are not many) of the celebrated albertite mine, the object of a famous geological lawsuit in 1852. Albertite, a shiny, black, natural bitumen discovered by Maritime geologist Dr. Abraham Gesner, was the first raw material in the manufacture of kerosene, before the advent of oil wells in 1859. Hence it occupies an important place in early petroleum history. But that's another story. Getting there entails driving along a dirt road which is all but impassable when the frost comes out of the ground in the spring, but otherwise is quite do-able in the family car, albeit sometimes with caution, and slowly. The overgrown mine dumps lie at a fork in the dirt road, and 2.7 km from the corner at the white church.

But on to the underground lake, instead of turning right at the white church stay on the Albert Mines Road. Go through the village. At around 5 km from where you turned off 114 (or 31.5 km from Moncton), note the piles of gypsum. It was extensively quarried here, in the past, and still is on a small scale. Some of this is sculptural grade alabaster. Indeed, Randy Simon, the MicMac carver of Big Cove in Kent County, carved a nativity scene in Albert County alabaster which now graces the Canadian Embassy in France. Note the quarry on the right at 5.7 km, the one with a chain running across the access. At the next telephone pole on your right just past this quarry, turn right onto the narrow dirt road. Go 1 km. Just past the downhill "S" curve in the road, turn left off the road and park in the small glade. Now the fun begins.

You'll have to cross the brook. Most often there's a tree felled across it, but not always. Follow the path that runs uphill on the other side of the brook. In about 10 minutes, you'll come to an imposing vertical cliff face on the right side of the path. The cavern lies at the bottom of the steep slope facing this cliff. You'll need to scramble down to get there. This is a gypsum cave, and since gypsum dissolves rapidly in rainwater (which is how such caverns form) but disintegrates in large blocks, you won't see any stalactites or stalagmites. Note how cold it is inside. Snow can last here until well into July.

Having visited the lake, continue on the Albert Mines road 4.5 km then turn left. This takes you back out onto the main highway, route 114. Turning right here will take to the famous "rocks" at Hopewell which lie just ahead.

In contrast to the underground lake, which is one of those almost secret little places in the woods which people know about but which no-one has ever done anything with, "the Rocks" is (or are) very distinctly a developed destination, with walkways, restaurants, shops and bus tours. Here, you'll see the classic geological formation known as sea stacks. The conglomerate rock here is carved away at the bottom by the tides and winter ice of the Bay of Fundy, leaving standing pinnacles, which narrow toward the bottom. You can walk along the shore here at low tide, exploring in between the pinnacles - but be careful. The Fundy tide rises rapidly, and dramatically, and if you don't keep a close eye on what the tide is doing, your way back might be cut off.

From the Rocks, the road south (NB 114) leads to Fundy Park. If you head that way, you should make a point of checking out the Crooked Creek Look Off in the village of Riverside Albert, a spectacular hilltop view along the Crooked Creek Gorge below.